8 disc golf discs that are beginner friendly

What Disc Should You Buy Next After a Starter Set?

A hand reaching toward a single disc set apart from a matched three-disc starter set.

You bought a starter set, or a starter pack, whichever your shop called it, and you've played enough rounds to know you're sticking with this, and now you're standing in front of a wall of plastic wondering what your next disc should be.

Here's the problem with searching for an answer: almost everything that comes up is a starter set roundup, or a "best discs" list written for someone who owns nothing yet. You're past that. You don't need someone to tell you which set to buy. You're not really upgrading your starter set. You're adding a disc that covers a shot your current bag can't.

The good news is that the answer doesn't come from the shelf. It comes from your last few rounds.

Start With the Shot You're Missing, Not the Disc You're Missing

The common three-disc starter set gives you a putter, a midrange, and a driver, generally built around molds that are easy to throw at lower power. That's a real bag. It covers more of the course than new players expect, and plenty of players score well with exactly those three discs for a long time.

So the question isn't "what's missing from my set?" It's "what shot keeps costing me strokes?"

Before you buy anything, think back through your recent rounds and find the moment you didn't have an answer. That moment tells you what to add. The sections below cover the gaps we hear about at the counter, roughly in the order they tend to show up.

Gap 1: Nothing in Your Bag Handles Wind

A hand holding a single disc up at an angle, with faint suggested wind movement in the background.

This is often the first real hole in a starter set. Starter discs lean toward easy-to-throw, and easy-to-throw generally means willing to turn. That's a feature on a calm day and a liability in a headwind, because headwinds tend to make a disc act more understable than it does in calm air. The disc that flies straight all summer suddenly flips over on the one exposed hole.

If that sounds familiar, your first add is something more overstable than what you carry: a midrange or fairway driver that resists turning at high speed and finishes with a dependable fade. For a right-handed backhand, that finish is to the left. You won't throw it as far as your straight discs, and that's fine. Its job is predictability, wind or no wind.

Disc choice isn't the whole answer in wind, either. A lower flight with the nose down gives a headwind less time and less of the disc to push against, whichever mold you're throwing. The overstable disc just widens your margin for error.

An overstable disc also earns its place on plenty of other shots. It's the disc for holes that demand a hard finishing hook, and many players find it the easier disc to learn a forehand with, because it fights the extra turn a developing forehand release tends to add.

If your discs are flipping over on calm days too, hold off on this purchase. That's a different problem with different causes, and we wrote a full diagnostic for it: why your disc keeps turning over, and how to find your cause. Buying more overstable plastic to cover a release problem works briefly, then leaves you throwing meathooks while the underlying issue stays put.

Gap 2: One Putter Isn't Enough Anymore

Two identical putters side by side, one crisp and one lightly worn.

The least exciting add on this list is the one we'd defend hardest, and it's the clearest case of an actual second disc rather than a new category: a second copy of the putter you already like.

Two reasons. First, practice. A putting session goes a lot further when you can throw a run of putts with identical discs, instead of one putt followed by a walk. Second, roles: two copies of the same mold splitting the work, one that stays in shape on the practice green and one that takes the abuse of tee shots and approaches. Same mold, same feel in the hand, two jobs.

A putter you trust off the tee covers a whole category of holes, too. Short, tight fairways reward a slow, straight disc, and your putter is the straightest thing you own.

Gap 3: Your Power Grew and Your Driver Didn't Keep Up

A hand placing a fresh driver into a bag that already holds an older, more worn copy.

This one arrives later, and it arrives disguised as a problem. The starter driver that flew straight in your first season starts turning over on your full-power throws. Players assume the disc failed or their form broke. Often, neither. You got faster, and the disc that used to match your arm speed is now too understable for your full-power throws.

The add here is a step up in stability for your full-power tee shots, a driver that stays composed at the speed you now throw. Keep the old one. A disc you've outgrown at full power is still a straight flyer on smooth throws and a turnover disc on purpose, which is a shot you'll want eventually anyway. This is the start of cycling, the habit of retiring discs into new jobs instead of out of the bag. Our guide on when to retire or replace a disc covers how that progression works as discs wear.

One warning for this purchase: a step up in stability is not the same as a step up in speed. Which brings us to the next disc plenty of players buy, and shouldn't.

What to Skip for Now: the High-Speed Distance Driver

A single wide-rim distance driver resting alone, set apart from the rest of the scene

The classic next purchase after a starter set is a wide-rim distance driver with a big speed number. It's also the purchase we see players regret.

A faster disc is not automatically a longer disc for you. Speed ratings describe the amount of launch speed a disc is designed to handle, not how much distance it automatically gives you. Thrown below that speed, a high-speed driver can fade off early and hide the flight its numbers describe. The frequent result is a disc that flies no farther than your fairway driver and is harder to control on the way.

There's one exception worth naming. Some players with smooth, consistent form get real distance from a lightweight or understable distance driver thrown as a hyzer flip. That's a technique purchase, and the technique comes first. If your release isn't repeatable yet, the same disc is far more likely to turn and crash than to flip up and carry.

Here's the plain rule: if your fairway driver still has room to grow, don't jump speed classes yet. Distance drivers earn a bag slot eventually. They earn it when your fairway driver flights start running out of room, not before. If your current driver still has more to give, the cheaper distance upgrade is field work, and the disc money is better spent on any of the three gaps above.

Add One Disc at a Time

However you order these purchases, resist the urge to fix every gap in one checkout. The rule is simple: learn the disc you have before you buy the next one. A new disc takes rounds to learn, and five new molds at once mostly buys you five discs you half know.

A useful check before adding another mold: do you know what your current discs do on hyzer, flat, and anhyzer? Each release angle you learn is a new shot from a disc you already own. The players who get the most out of a small bag aren't limiting themselves. They're getting three flights out of every disc before paying for a fourth.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the best discs to add after a starter set?

There's no single best disc, because it depends on the shot your rounds are missing, not a shopping list. The common early gaps are wind (add something overstable), putting consistency (add a second copy of your putter), and outgrowing your starter driver at full power (add a more stable driver and keep the old one for smooth throws).

Should I upgrade my starter set, or just add to it?

Add to it. A starter set built around easy-to-throw molds isn't a mistake to correct, it's a real bag that covers more of the course than new players expect. The next disc's job is to cover the one shot your current three don't, not to replace them. Keep the starter discs in the bag once you add to it; they're still the right choice for plenty of the shots you'll face.

Do I need a distance driver as a beginner?

Not early on. A high-speed driver thrown below its intended speed tends to fade early and fly no farther than a slower disc, with less control. Add one when your fairway driver flights are maxing out, and until then put the money toward discs that fill a real gap.

How many discs do I need to play well?

Fewer than the shelf suggests. A putter, a midrange, and a driver can carry you through a full round, and plenty of experienced players deliberately play small bags. Add discs when a specific shot keeps costing you strokes, and learn each one before buying the next.

Should my next disc be the same brand as my starter set?

It doesn't have to be. Flight numbers are a starting point for comparing discs rather than a guarantee across brands, so wherever you shop, describe the flight you want and the throw you have. Any good shop can match a disc to that from several brands.

Ready to Fill the Gap?

A range of drivers, midranges, and putters in different stability levels and plastics laid out on a wooden counter.

If one of these gaps sounded like your last round, we can help you fill it. We stock drivers, midranges, and putters across the stability spectrum, in base and premium plastics. If you're not sure which gap you're trying to fill, we'll help you match a disc to your throw instead of simply selling you the fastest driver on the shelf.

Shop discs at TrueNorthDiscGolf.com →

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